Originally developed and published here by unknown author: http://members.cox.net/rlacm/IntakeIndex.htm
Recovered and published by BMW-Planet.com – May 2012
Note that a good majority of the required parts had to be special ordered, so plan your time accordingly. The entire job
took me just over six hours and included taking numerous photos for this writeup and a trip to the dealer since I hadn't
planned on the valley pan heat shield being too brittle to swap to the new pan. Additionally, I made several stupid mistakes
(hey, I had pneumonia when I did this work, so cut me some slack, ok?) which are noted in the text by "Dork Alert!".
Together these cost me at least 30-45 minutes, so I'm sure the job could be done in less than five hours if you were really in
a hurry.
Just to keep things fair, I've got many years experience as a shadetree mechanic, so it's difficult to say with certainty the
skill level required to complete this job. However, there are no particularly significant skills required to perform the work.
Look thru the information provided here and determine if your own experience level is appropriate for the task. I followed
the BMW TIS procedures verbatim, and the job went very smoothly with only minor surprises.
DO YOU NEED TO PERFORM THESE TASKS?
Valley Pan: Determining whether your valley pan is leaking or not is pretty easy. Does your car inexplicably lose small
amounts of coolant over time, yet you are unable to find the source of the leak after carefully checking all the usual
suspects? Simply remove the engine cover and, using a flashlight, look carefully behind the intake manifold down at the
engine block. Locate the water manifold which bolts to the back of the block for reference (two heater hoses attach to it),
then look forward an inch or two along the block/head interface on the passenger side until you find the valley pan, which
sits about an inch deeper in the engine block. If it's leaking, you'll see a buildup of cooked coolant in the corner(s) - no
matter where the pan is leaking, the coolant will settle back here over time and slowly bake from repeated heat cycles.
Note that the equivalent area on the driver's side of the block contains a drainage hole and the view is blocked by the engine
vent tube. You can also see the valley pan/block seam by looking down past the manifold at the front corners.
Intake System leaks: This one is a bit tougher to diagnose, unless you have a really bad leak. Rough idle on cold mornings
is common, along with a subtle bog when increasing throttle setting. I was also experiencing very subtle "hiccups" usually
when idling at a red light - the engine would just sort of skip a beat then resume running smoothly. Finally, my motor was
starting a bit more slowly at times than normal - by this I do not mean the starter was turning the engine over slowly - but
that the engine, instead of catching within one second of turning the key, would sometimes take 2 or 3. Nothing really
drastic - just when it happened, it would give me pause. If you suspect a leak, you can sometimes prove one by carefully
spraying appropriate liquid (Berryman's, etc.) on the suspect seal with the engine running. If you find a leak, the liquid will
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