BMW R1100 Spezifikationen PDF herunterladen (Seite 42)

awkward position but the metal flange piece is easy to touch. The screw, that limits

how far it can close, is located on a metal plate above the flange. This screw

determines the distance between the flange and the throttle plate. [If you see an

adjustment screw on a long arm, this is related to the throttle advance (adjusts the

"choke"); this is NOT the screw you are looking for.]

Now that you have found the flange and screw, you now must figure out how to adjust

the screw. Loosen the silver metal clamp that secures the black plastic air intake hose

to the metal throttle body and rotate the clamp for a more unobstructed working area;

remove the hose if necessary. Remove (cut off) the plastic cable tie that secures a wire

if it obstructs the working area. Replace the cable tie, hose and clamp when finished

with the throttle plate screw adjustment. The physical manipulation that is described in

the next paragraph (especially on RS models) is a challenge to your stamina and will

take time, patience and any odd-ball tool that works. If you find a tool that makes this

easy, please please please contact this author with your hint.

Your job is to loosen the 10 mm lock nut (counterclockwise) using a small wrench, and

then loosen the 8 mm stop screw (counterclockwise) using a wrench or a screwdriver

so that the metal flange piece does not contact the screw at all. If you loosen the screw

a few turns you should be able to see a gap between the end of the screw and the

metal flange piece. You must see a gap, which means the left throttle is closed. There

must be a gap !

Step 4. Attach DVM to red-white TPS wire #1 (rear) - ignition on

The TPS is mounted on the outside of the left 2 1/4 inch metal tube you have been

working around; it is a black flat plastic cover that measures 2 1/2 inches wide x 2

inches high with the word Bosch imprinted on it. This cover is attached by two allen-

head screws through the cover and the allen-head screws describe a horizontal line.

There is a prong attached to the bottom of the TPS, and a rubber boot that covers the

bottom of this prong. The prong can be removed easily by depressing the wire, which

acts like a latch, and pulling down. Do not remove the prong. Nothing bad will occur if

you do remove the prong from the body of the TPS, but for this adjustment the prong

must be attached.

The rubber boot that surrounds and protects the wiring that enters the bottom of the

TPS must be moved out of the way. Exert only enough force on the rubber boot to

wiggle it down far enough to expose about 1/2 inch of the four wires that enter the

prong. The wire furthest to the rear is coded; it is white and red and called wire #1.

Insert a sewing needle, a paper clip or other sharp and thin metal (electrical conducting)

object up and into the plastic housing where the white and red wire enters the prong.

Step 5. Move TPS to obtain zero reading (.006 volts) and lock TPS

Attach the ground probe (lead) of your digital volt meter (DVM ) to the spring of the side

stand or some other grounded metal object. Attach the other probe (lead) to the object

inserted into the white and red wire. With the bike on the center stand, with side stand

retracted, and with engine cut-off switch on the right handle bar indicating "on", turn the

ignition key to "on" but DO NOT start the bike.

Read the DVM and record this TPS value for possible future reference. Do not remove

the TPS screws; loosen them so that the TPS can be moved (adjusted). Turning the

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