BMW R1100 Spezifikationen Seite 29

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29
Synchronizing R1100 Throttle Bodies - Bob Gorman
This is and will continue to be a hot topic amongst R1100 owners. Properly synched
throttle bodies will greatly reduce surging and vibration but getting them synched and
keeping them synched is probably the most difficult of any BMW motorcycle to date.
Dealers were required to purchase a $1000.00 special instrument in order to properly
synch the big twin but it can be done with the conventional Carb-Stix. It is easier with
the special tool which electrically dampens the sensitivity of the throttle operation but I
have had very good luck with the Carb-Stix for over 50,000 miles.
First attach the Carb-Stix to the each throttle body by removing the black vacuum
hose on the underside and attaching the Carb-Stix. It is not necessary to plug off the
removed vacuum hoses. If you have fuel injector covers on your bike remove the right
side cover only. We will perform the synching operation with the bike running. It must
be at normal operating temperature, but take care to not let it overheat. If you cannot
complete the operation in 5 minutes then let the bike cool a bit and try again or use a
fan to keep cool air flowing over the bike.
There are only two adjustments that can be performed on the R1100 throttles, idle
and throttle cable. The idle adjustment is accomplished by turning the brass screw on
each throttle body. They are big screws so you can't miss them. DO NOT set the idle
speed by manipulating the throttle stop screws like the older twins. The starting point
for the idle screw setting is 1 1/2 turns out for the RS and RT and 2 turns out for the R
and GS. Before setting the idle make sure you loosen the right side throttle cable.
There can not be any pull on either cable.
Start your bike and notice the mercury level rise in both columns. Take care when
dealing with mercury, it is extremely toxic. Turn each brass screw slightly in or out to
get the mercury levels dead even. The actual level is not important, we just want both
columns to be equal. When adjusted correctly the screws should be within 1/2 turn of
one another.
Now we'll go to the throttle cable. Only the right side is adjusted. The throttle cable is
a single cable that extends from the throttle grip to the left throttle body and then
continues over to the right throttle body. By manipulating only the right side we are
synching the right with the left. All we care about is that both throttle bodies are pulling
equal vacuum. With the bike running raise the rpms and watch the mercury level rise.
We want them to rise together and stay even at all rpms. This is easier said than done.
Don't worry too much if they are off slightly. Your target point is just when all the slack
is removed from the cable but before there is so much tension that your idle is affected.
Make sure the columns are close at 4,000 rpms, the dreaded surging range. Some
tuners like to use the throttle lock to keep the rpms even but I prefer to continue to raise
and lower the rpms instead. Be careful not to chop the throttle suddenly from high
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