BMW R1100 Spezifikationen Seite 27

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27
Changing the Fuel Filter on an R1100RS - Jon Diaz
Here is the procedure to change your R1100RS fuel filter. It took me about 90 minutes
the first time....but hopefully, things will go more quickly for you!
Purchase the following before you start: a new fuel filter, a new sealing O-ring for the
fuel pump plate, and two standard BMW fuel line clamps just like the ones used on the
fuel lines by the right side throttle body (point to these on your bike if your parts jockey
doesn't understand). Let your sealing O-ring lie out for a few days before starting the
job.....I didn't and had trouble later. Let the fuel level run down, way down, so low you
don't think you can make it back to the gas station. It still won't be low enough so you
might want to siphon out from the top as well. Get as much fuel out as possible. Drain,
swirl the bike, drain some more. OK?
Remove the left and right fairing panels, the seats, and the right fuel injector cover.
Unplug the right fuel injector wire and the fuel pump harness. The fuel delivery hoses
run behind the cross-over throttle cable, and most people will have too many fingers to
keep all that stuff plugged in. Remember that there are also two screws tying the upper
fairing to the gas tank, and two little screws holding the left and right inner panels (the
ones with the rocker switches/RID) to the gas tank. Those screws must be removed.
Remove the screw holding down the back of the gas tank, and keep track of the
grommets used to fill the gap between the frame and the tank. They like to fall out....
Unplug the vent lines right next to the airbox, and loosen both fuel line clamps. The top
fuel line is holding the fuel....when you pull it, you will need to drain into a gas can until
it stops, otherwise there will be a tremendous mess. When it is done draining, remove
the other hose and lift the tank off the bike.
I laid the tank on a towel on my garage floor, right side down. Mark the orientation of
the pump plate and then loosen it; carefully pull the inside vent lines off the plate, and
gently rotate the whole assembly out. Hold the assembly with your right hand, and use
your left hand to guide the fuel level sender and fuel pump screen through the hole in
the side of the tank.
I carried the fuel pump/filter works to the bench. Anyone familiar with a K-bike will
recognize everything here except the fuel filter is held in with compression clamps. I
pried those clamps off, pulled the hoses from either end, removed the old filter and
inserted the new one, and tightened the works down with the aforementioned screw-
type clamps.
Look at the fuel level sender rod while you have the parts out. There should be an E-
ring type circlip holding the float to the rod, but some of the early bikes were missing
these and had their floats bobbing around the tank rather than registering fuel level.
I carried the assembly back to the gas tank. The O-ring must be pressed down into the
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