BMW R1100 Spezifikationen Seite 21

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21
WARNING: You must pump both front and rear brakes to confirm that they are responding with
a solid feel BEFORE you ride the bike!!!
Note on brake fluid level: Before replacing brake pads, remove brake fluid so that it is NOT at
the maximum level. New brake pads will take up some of the brake fluid space in the system;
if the brake fluid is at maximum level it probably will overflow the reservoir.
METHOD TWO.
No Mityvac is used in Method Two. This method is used by many auto mechanics who use the
brake master cylinder to create the pressure needed to force fluid through the brake lines.
You will not be using the suction created by the Mityvac.
Replace the fluid in the handle-bar mounted reservoir as described in Method One.
There are still four basic steps in Method Two, but number one has been changed. The steps
now read: (1) Keep the reservoir cover in place to prevent fluid from squirting up (which will
create havoc with your paint) and attach a drain tube and jar to the caliper nipple to catch any
fluid that will be drained from the nipple. Pump the brake lever to insure that the system can
create pressure. Now, pull the lever gently (as in applying the brake) while you perform the
next two steps. Do NOT allow the lever to return to its open position until the next two steps
are complete!!! (2) Gradually open the bleeding nipple at the disk caliper approximately 1/2
turn (3) Close the bleeding nipple while fluid is STILL COMING OUT and BEFORE the
reservoir is empty, (4) With the caliper nipple closed and the reservoir cover still in place,
release the lever. Understand and memorize step #3. With this method you are replacing the
brake fluid one squirt(i.e. one press of the brake lever) at a time and repeating until clear
fluid emerges from the drain tube connected to the bleeder valve. Keep an eye on the
reservoir during these steps and refill whenever it goes down to 50%.
Be extremely careful with the bike's brake fluid in the handle-bar mounted reservoir!!!
Follow the same procedure that is described in Method One. Start on the left front and bleed
the fluid until it is clear in color. You must close the bleeding nipple to turn off the flow by
tightening the nipple while the fluid is still coming out, and this means maintaining a small
amount of pressure on the brake lever and maintain some fluid flow. If you take the pressure
off the brake lever while the fluid is still coming out, you may introduce air into the brake
system and this is bad. Read "Air in the System" below. (You may be able to locate a "One
Man Brake Bleeder" which is a one-way valve that attaches to the bleeder nipple and prevents
air from entering through the bleeder nipple. When using this, instead of opening and closing
the bleeder valve, you just pump the master cylinder until the fluid runs clear and being careful
to keep brake fluid in the reservoir. Do not let the reservoir run dry; this will pump air into the
system.) You are finished with the left side when discharging fluid is clear and the caliper
nipple is tight. Repeat this procedure with the front right caliper. Make certain the front
brakes are finished, the front nipples are tight, and the front reservoir cover is secure with the
four screws. It is now time to bleed the rear brakes using the same procedures.
Attach the drain tube and jar to the rear caliper nipple and repeat the four steps with the rear
brakes. Gently and carefully actuate the rear brake while releasing the nipple on the rear
brake. Observe the rear reservoir closely and replenish as needed. Discontinue pumping
when the fluid is clear; close the nipple as fluid is gradually flowing out.
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