1 I-drive / Navigation Professional Retrofit for the E90 …as performed by Booster4075 With support from the members of the e90post.com forum / Naviga
10 Remove both cup holders by removing the four Phillips screws.
11 Unscrew the panel underneath the glove box by removing the two T-20 torx screws. Unplug the bulb connector. Open the glove box and remove the
12 Remove the glove box back panel by removing the six T-20 torx screws and pull the panel out. Unplug the harness from the bulb, trunk lock switch,
13 Remove the driver’s side under-dash panel by taking out the three T-20 torx screws. Unplug the speaker and light.
14 I found it easier to un-snap the Bluetooth antenna from the panel than to unplug the fakra connector. I also slid the fiber-optic connector off t
15 Pull up very hard on the transmission shift knob (without punching yourself in the face when it pops off!) – do not twist it! Then gently pull u
16 Slide your seats forward and upright. Remove the back cover of the center console trim by pulling gently at the top edge and simultaneously pryin
17 Unplug the wires for the lighter and aux/USB (if equipped.) Yank up hard on the e-brake. If your car is equipped with the phone-prep kit, you w
18 Slide the seats back, move the steering wheel down and all the way back, and disconnect the battery. GENTLY, pry up the center dash trim. This pie
19 Once this center trim is off, disconnect the three wiring connectors for the start button, the DSC/hazard/door lock buttons and carefully remove t
2 In addition, the retrofit illustrated was performed on an E90 with a build date of 10/06. Wiring harnesses and subsystems can vary dramatically wi
20 Gently pry up the speaker trim. .
21 Unscrew the three Phillips screws holding in the speaker, unplug it, and remove it.
22 Pry up the solar sensor, unplug it, and remove it.
23 CAREFULLY, pry out the driver’s side vent/trim. Then just pull the headlight switch straight towards you and rock it down and out of the dash.
24 Make sure you have already disconnected your battery before you continue! (Completely disconnecting the negative terminal in the trunk is the eas
25 Once the airbag is unlatched, pry up on the small black tabs on each squib connector to unlock the connectors. Then remove each connector from th
26 Unplug the wiring connectors from the center steering hub/clock spring. Remove the 16mm bolt. I took this time to use a marker to mark the hub
27 Pry up the upper steering wheel trim and pop the clips on each side.
28 Pull out the trim, exposing the “leather” trim on top of the column. Use needle-nose pliers to squeeze these pins and push them out. Remove the
29 Using pliers or a screwdriver, carefully bend the plastic tabs outwards to unlatch the lower trim from the steering column.
3 Nomenclature Business or Professional Navigation? - BMW created two levels of navigation sophistication. “Business” is a simple navigation system
30 Remove the four T-20 screws holding the blinkers/cruise/wiper switch assembly.
31 Unplug both connectors from the bottom-back of the switch.
32 Unscrew the two screws holding the gauge assembly in place. Remove the gauges, unplug the connector and set the gauges aside.
33 Carefully, pry out the “airbag” plastic cap from the A-pillar trim and unscrew the T-20 bolt. If you are not careful, you will muck-up the plast
34 Pry-out the key bezel and remove the two Phillips screws. Pull out the key holder module and plug it from the harness.
35 Reach underneath the passenger side dash and unplug both side connectors to the passenger airbag (same type of connectors as on the steering wheel
36 Roll the dash back towards you, lifting it slightly to clear the steering column. The dashboard is light and can be placed on your lap and lifted
37 This is what is removed!
38 Retrofit! Take the cooling tube and remove the piece with the rubber mounting flange with the hole in it. Keep the male-to-male joiner on this pie
39 Stick the male-to-male joiner into the existing cooling hose on your car. This is what it looks like “Before”:
4 Wire identification: Wire Color BL Blue BR Brown GE Yellow GN Green GR Gray OR Orange RS Pink RT Red SW Black VI Violet WS W
40 This is what it looks like “AFTER” you attach the cooling hose: Make sure to wedge the rubber mounting loop/flange onto the existing post on the
41 Central Information Display (CID) Run the thick LVDS Cable from the CID hole down the left side vent area, around the back and into the dash hole
42 I ran into an issue where Pin #37 of the JBE was already filled, so I hooked the CID pin #1 into the junction for this wire as opposed to tapping
43 To connect the rest of the wires of the CID, they all get connected to the x14272 connector of the JBE. Remove connector x14272 at the front of th
44 Then split the connector apart:
45 One the connector is apart, you can slide the insides apart to make two connectors:
46 If you look carefully, you can see that each pin is labeled, so putting pins into the connector should not be confusing if you take your time and
47 I-Drive Controller I built a four-pin harness which ran from the center console of the car (where the controller is located) to the right front
48 There are two different ways to hook up the controller. The “proper” (as a navigation-equipped car was built) way is to run the RT/WS (power) le
49 I located connector x11003 at the back – it’s a green connector also shown here (I’ve also been told it comes in blue): Note that the pict
5 Parts Required: • CCC / Navigation head unit (p/n depends on build date & region) • I-drive controller (p/n depends on build date & regi
50 CCC Fan If you are lucky, you will find one of the remaining business-to-pro retrofit fan harnesses out there. I was able to get one from a salv
51 GPS Antenna Cable You need to run an additional antenna cable for the navigation system – it’s not already in the harness (at least it wasn’t in m
52 Then run the antenna wire underneath the back seat-back and into the trunk. Lift up the cargo tray and observe the TCU on the right side. Unhook
53 Reassembly! Make sure to swap over any parts from your dash, including your passenger dash airbag. Torque the four bolts to 7nm (60 in/lbs.) N
54 Steering Wheel Buttons (optional) Before you put the steering wheel back on, now would be a good time to swap the (optional) steering wheel button
55 To do the swap, remove the three screws from the back of the steering wheel and the whole trim & buttons pull off of the front of the steeri
56 This is what it looks like when removed: Replace the button set with the new style, reinstall the trim on the wheel, and you are set. There is
57 Wrapping it up Putting the rest together is cake. As for the center console, you will need to swap over your shift boot and ashtray to the new t
58 Troubleshooting I’ve had plenty of issues while trying to figure this retrofit out…hopefully if you run into problems, these will help: NO AUDIO –
6 Getting Started / Disassembly Just do it now – empty out your glove box, center console, and don’t forget to remove the CD from your radio – you wo
7 Take out the two Phillips screws and remove the radio. Unplug the fakra connector for the antenna and unsnap the fat square connector at the back b
8 Remove the four T-20 torx screws at edges of the plastic mounting bracket and the two 8mm screws at the bottom of the bracket. Remove the bracket
9 Pry up the dash trim strip with your trim tool – it’ll snap out easy. It will probably also snap in half easily, so take your time. It’s held in